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 Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary
Lake Belton, Texas
A personal account detailing the discovery, development,
and founding of the Rogers Park rock-climbing area
1992 - 1998
By "Joey" Phillips
Rogers Park PDF Files:

The initial founding of the Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary during the early 1990s came about as quite a fluke. 

 

Back in the late 70s, the vicinity above the now popular bouldering crag was a public camping area accessible by a paved road.  The area was hardly ever used and made a great spot for overnight keg-parties, until an acquaintance named Russell Tulloch drunkenly wandered off the cliff, looking for a spot to pee.  He suffered a severely broken leg and was laid-up for several months.  Being care-free and nutty as well as a bonafide party-animal, Tulloch jokingly described the incident saying “…I went to step behind a bush, and the bush (actually a treetop) suddenly shot upwards.  I was freaking out about why the bush was shooting upwards.  Then I hit the ground…While looking for somewhere to take a leak, I wasn’t thinking about the cliff.  I thought we were partying at Dana Peak Park…”  

If not for Russell Tulloch's accident, the development the rock-climbing area at Rogers Park probably wouldn’t have occurred.  The cliff isn’t visible from the lake, and the camping area had eventually been closed with the access road barricaded to vehicles.

Steven McReynolds and John Hogge Bouldering at Rogers Park
1998

Nowadays, slews of Rogers Park bouldering videos are online.  This particular video was recently posted and highlights a few of the initial routes first ascended back in 1993 - 1994 and the sabbatical of 96, for example: "Bozo," "The Chin,"  the "Serpentine" area, "Abash / Abase," "Glory Putri," and "The Flake."   Most of the route names in this video are the original names provided to James Harrison for the guidebook, in 1998.

During the early 90s, the only climbing area near Lake Belton was Miller Springs located in the Belton Dam spillway.  Most of the land at Miller Springs is federally owned and was primarily an off-road motorcycle area, back in the day.   In 1993, the area was leased by the Miller Springs Nature Alliance and motorized vehicles became prohibited.

 

Having acquiring rappelling skills while serving in an army ranger unit, rappelling on the overhanging cliffs at Miller Springs became a fanciful hobby, for a while, after being discharged from the military in the mid 70s.  The rappelling techniques were naturally passed on to younger brothers Dave and Donald (twins) who were teenagers at the time.   Back in those days, there was no technical climbing going on in the area, and we could park on a paved road at the base of the cliffs.  Our rock-climbing kick came about fifteen years later and coincided with the emergence of the Miller Springs Nature Alliance. 

 

When the nature alliance took over the area, some concern developed about the population of cliff-swallows diminishing in connection with bolted climbing-routes being established in the birds’ nesting areas, on the extremely overhanging cliffs.  Needless to say, our initial climbing excursions at Miller Springs invariably led to unfavorable encounters with Murry McCarley - a federal park ranger who seemed intent on discouraging our use of the area.  Back then, we were intermediate-level climbers not even remotely capable of climbing the humungous overhangs, and Miller Springs offered very few potential routes suitable to our menial aspirations.  Therefore, exploration for alternative climbing areas commenced in the local vicinity, and Russell Tulloch’s story about the cliff at Rogers Park came to mind.

 

The initial exploration of Rogers Park was a solo excursion in the dead of summer.  Most of the area near the cliff is densely vegetated with scrub brush, but after about an hour of skirting accessible areas along the top, a route to the bottom was finally discovered.  The area along the bottom of the cliff was a literal jungle of briars, ivy, and underbrush, while the hillside between the cliff and lake was steep, rocky, and difficult to negotiate through the brush.  The place was a dump from decades of beer bottles and cans being tossed off the cliff.  Apparently, all the 55-gallon metal drums used as trash containers for the old camping area had also been tossed off.  

The cliff faces north and gets little direct sun. Trees along the bottom provide continuous shade - a welcome characteristic during an August swelter but conducive to moss and rotten rock.  The quest that afternoon was not to find a bouldering area but an area for roped climbing, so the puniness of the mossy, liken-covered wall was an immediate disappointment.  Several sweat-drenched and dehydrating hours were spent surveying the half-mile long cliff that barely exceeds twenty-five in height.  Most of the spots high enough to sport a top-rope were either way overhanging or way overgrown with vegetation (usually both).  Locating such spots from the top would have required time and teamwork as well as some brush clearing. 

 

Only one small spot was appealing, where the cliff is just over twenty-five feet tall and is clean, bereft, and mostly vertical.  The lower half is not quite vertical and resembles a very steep slide.  A line of prospective holds consisting mostly of fingertip pockets forms an s-shape on the face.   The spot was mentally cataloged as Slide Wall.  A reasonable top-access route is conveniently situated near Slide Wall, and the top is clear of brush.

 

A few weeks later, Dave Phillips came up from Austin, and we set a top-rope at Slide Wall.  However, the small pockets on the traversing section of the “S” proved to be too tenuous.  A couple of bigger pockets above the traverse and near the top indicated that a route was surely there.   Slide Winder became the preferred name of the route.  Dave was in the process of starting a family, but during the next few months, he drove up to visit a couple more times.  However, he naturally soon lost interest in Rogers Park.  We weren’t very enthused about bouldering at the time and ended up back at Miller Springs.  Most of our early days of climbing were spent either at Enchanted Rock or in the Austin area.

Slide Wall
"Slide Winder"
5.11b
First Top-Rope Attempt - 1993
First Successful Top-Rope Ascent - 1999

During a final encounter with Ranger McCarley, he was informed about the interest in developing Rogers Park as an alternative climbing area.  Regulations technically prohibited establishing trails or otherwise removing vegetation from the federal property, without permission.  However, in response to comments about the need to clear brush from along the cliff at Rogers Park, McCarley merely shrugged his shoulders and made no comment.  The Miller Springs Nature Alliance was drawing a lot of community support at the time, and McCarley gave the impression of simply wanting to avoid being caught up in any controversy between the rock climbers and the nature alliance.  He surely indicated no concern whatsoever about the potentiality of brush being cleared at Rogers Park.  This was interpreted as an implicit truce.

Click To View
Miller Springs Nature Alliance Article:

The laborious undertaking of establishing the Rogers Park bouldering area progressed gradually and was a totally personal endeavor.  Nobody else was interested in helping with the task of developing the area, and apart from Dave and a couple of local climbers, no other climbers knew about the cliff.

 

Persistence in the newfound rock-climbing hobby together with an intrinsic and lifelong affinity for climbing invariably led to the acquisition of improved climbing abilities as well as an essentially ensuing interest in bouldering.   Therefore, solitary visits to Rogers Park became increasingly more frequent, and a pair of limb-loppers were standard gear. 

 

With the mid-90s, came the emergence of a professional interest in the prospect of teaching rock-climbing classes.  Having been self-employed as a martial-arts instructor and auto-mechanic throughout the 80s and early 90s, the prospect of acquiring additional income by teaching rock-climbing and rappelling classes couldn’t be ignored.  The freelance mechanic business had diminished completely, and the martial-arts enterprise was being seriously hampered by an unexpected proliferation of schools in the community.  In view of past military training and a well-established teaching background, together with an ever escalating appreciation for recreational climbing, the idea of pursuing a professional interest in climbing was intoxicatingly intriguing.  The guidebooks for Central Texas and Enchanted Rock had been memorized.  The top-rope setups for all the popular beginner-level routes had been mastered, and an advanced level of climbing proficiency had been developed.

 

At Rogers Park, Slide Wall was suitable for rappelling classes.  Another wall called Flake Wall was about the same height as Slide Wall and provides a couple of beginner-level routes that would suffice for teaching the basics of climbing and belaying.  Therefore, introductory classes could be hosted in the local vicinity, in preparation for bigger outings to Enchanted Rock.  The notion of teaching the climbing classes spawned a greatly escalated motivation to develop Rogers Park.  Slide Wall and Flake Wall were at opposite ends of the crag, and developing a comfortable trail safe for wannabe climbers, adolescents, and perhaps children seemed to be a requisite task. 

 Flake Wall

When visiting Rogers Park, we typically parked near the barricade at the old access road, right next to a residential driveway.  However, for the purpose of hosting climbing classes, use of the parking lot at the public boat-ramp seemed more appropriate.  Using the parking lot would allow groups to access the cliff without being in view of any area residents.  However, maintaining the low-visibility approach would necessitate an additional quarter-mile of trail. 

 

Throughout the latter part of 94 and much of 95, a tremendous amount of time and energy were spent clearing the area along the bottom of the cliff.  Preventing the trail from repeatedly meandering down onto the rocky hillside required clearing boo koo briar patches intermingled with poison ivy, poison oak, and brush.  In some spots, the vegetation formed completely impassible barriers, sometimes about a hundred feet thick, along the base of the crag .  Clearing such spots often took a few days of full-time labor simply to progress twenty or thirty yards.  Loose talus was either moved from directly beneath the crag and placed along the edges of the flat areas or carried to other spots to form berms needed to flatten sections of trail traversing the sloping terrain. 

 

Enthusiastic motivation whelmed into tantric manifestations of unprecedented perseverance.  For several months, full days were often spent tirelessly engrossed in the seemingly endless task with hardly any significant rest breaks - except for a couple of hours during mid-week for interludes of bouldering.   All the work at Rogers Park was being done during weekday mornings and afternoons, while weekends were usually spent lead-climbing at Enchanted Rock, Austin’s Barton Creek, or the crags at Reimer’s Ranch on the Perdernales River, about an hour south of Austin. 

 

Clearing the entire base of the crag at Rogers Park would obviously take a single person much longer than a few months to complete.  A few convenient spots had been discovered that provided moderate walkways between the top and bottom of the cliff.  Therefore, once the primary areas of interest were sufficiently developed, the access road through the old campground could be used in conjunction with completed sections of trail to reasonably access both Flake Wall and the Slide Wall area.  The campground is well away from the residential area that ends at the barricade blocking the access road.  

 

With the essential training-areas reasonably developed, brochures describing the climbing-classes were distributed around the local area and put on display at supportive businesses such as fitness gyms, video-rental stores, and community centers.  A one-month ad was also placed in the Temple, Texas newspaper,  but no significant response followed.   However, several years of teaching martial-arts through the Temple Junior College (TJC) Continuing Education Program had established a precedent that enabled the program director to be persuaded into agreeing to offer the rock-climbing classes through the program.  This was a big victory.

 

Prior to the climbing classes being included in the continuing-education program, a written proposal was necessary.  In lieu of presenting a proposal entirely in writing, the idea of including a supporting video seemed like the best way to convey the true essence of what the classes would entail.  After reluctantly agreeing to offer the climbing classes through the program, the director started becoming excited about the prospect, especially after hearing about the decision to produce a promotional video. 

 

The overall endeavor of starting the rock-climbing classes was becoming increasingly more exhilarating.  Unfortunately, the task of acquiring the necessary video footage turned out to be more difficult than expected.   Obtaining appropriate footage of beginners being trained was difficult to accomplish without actually having any beginners to train.  A small amount of footage was obtained using Dave’s wife and a martial-arts student who visited Rogers Park and climbed on a top-rope.  Mostly, we were getting footage of climbers showing off at the Austin crags.   The process of producing the video was becoming an ordeal that probably needed to be scrapped, but the compelling notion and creative drive prevailed. 

 

Early in 96, the written proposal for the TJC Continuing Education Program had been on the back burner for awhile, and then my spouse decided to throw in the towel on our marriage, after eighteen years.  She had always been an essential business assistant who was talented and a great help with the martial-arts classes.  She was a most trusted belay-person very well trained but tended to be unduly acrophobic while hiking on exposed terrain at Enchanted Rock.  She enjoyed managing the gear and was usually comfortable climbing on top-ropes - if all slack was kept out of the rope.  She liked working-out and being strong, but her climbing training had been set back a couple of times by finger-tendon injuries incurred while fooling around on the overhanging pockets at Rogers Park.  During the autumn of 95 she’d been working on some routes in the upper 5.10 difficulty range.  Surprisingly, she’d also developed the notion to start lead-climbing easy routes that were well bolted and not too dicey.  She was the only available person trustworthy and qualified to assist in teaching the classes.  She surely possessed the necessary sense of responsibility to safely and professionally develop and maintain the rock-climbing classes.  Her assistance was absolutely essential.   After her initial decision to end our relationship, the climbing agenda was dropped, and a job was taken at a local transmission-shop with hopes of salvaging the marriage.  However, her gifted stubbornness apparently exceeded the necessary patience.  After several weeks without hearing from her, an exponential relapse of the rock-climbing addiction transpired with a catapulting effect.

 

The initial months after breaking up with the ex-wife were a despondent episode, and Rogers Park became a sanctuary offering the only true solace.  About two or three evenings a week were spent at Rogers Park, after work.   Burnt out forearms usually came quickly while climbing on the overhangs and dicey routes.  Bouldering sessions of about two hours in duration spaced at three-day intervals comprised the climbing ritual.  All other available time was spent removing brush, developing the trail, and clearing rocks from landing areas.  The idea of teaching the climbing classes had naturally been abandoned, but a profoundly enhanced appreciation for bouldering took root and perpetuated the motivation to continue developing the area.  Therefore, the compelling dynamics were no longer tainted by ambitious goals and occupational necessity.  The desire to continue with the laborious undertaking was transformed and became founded solely on reverent creativity with the desire to make a monumental contribution to the esoteric and virtuous art of bouldering. 

Most of the initial “high-ball” routes attempted at Rogers Park were vertical or slightly overhanging but not too extreme, probably V3 max. The heights of the routes were generally in the twenty-foot range, and no rappelling or ladders were used to pre-inspect for holds.  The routes were climbed on-sight from the ground up, with no spotters or crash pads.  The most captivating and intriguing aspect of the Rogers Park experience was the discipline involved in establishing the routes, on virgin rock, in total solitude - well…not quite total.  A thirteen year-old Doberman Pincer named Sissy liked tagging along.  She loved being at the lake but was slightly feeble and sometimes needed a bit of help over awkward spots on the trail. 

 

Loose and rotten rock was abundant on the cliff, and the routes were approached very methodically using minimal dynamic techniques.  Reverse sequencing was essential, because effective down-climbing was the key to survival.  Once above the comfortable jumping-off height, the climbing system involved learning a move (or half-move) and then reversing it, making the move again, and then trying to figured out another move, and so on.  Body positions had to be maintained and sustained with one hand free to check for bad rock and explore for new holds.  Holds also had to be cleaned.  The pockets were usually packed full of dirt with foliage rooted in.  The higher a project progressed, the more redundant the down-climbing became.  Sometimes intermittent ledges were present for resting, but sufficient strength always had to be reserved for the down-climbing.   A hold breaking off or a blown finger-tendon may have been disastrous, and exuberance could have been devastating.   The cell phone era hadn’t arrived yet, and nobody knew about the solitary bouldering escapades going on, way out of hearing range of anyone who could have heard a cry for help, except possibly someone in a boat.  Sometimes morbid thoughts crept in - thoughts of lying on the ground with a broken leg (or worse) while being eaten by fire ants. 

 

The unyielding composure and highly focused concentration involved in establishing the prospective routes was deeply meditative and invoked a tranquil sense of communion with the rock and with nature as a whole.   The up-close-and-personal sense of connectedness to the crag was not only instinctive and literal but also deeply intuitive, and immensely gratifying.

The following images highlight a few of the more memorable upper pucker-factor routes first ascended during the gloomy era of dejection, in 1996. 

The personal circumstances, sacrifices, and experiences associated with the gradually progressing development of Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary were subtlety kindling a life-long bond with the location.  With this bond came a strong sense of protectiveness.  No formal permission had been obtained to develop the area, and thoughts about the possibility of access issues arising were always lurking in the background.  The area at the barricaded access-road was always used for parking, and the same vehicle being repeatedly parked beside the residential driveway surely must have seemed suspicious to the folks residing there.  Any reports to the police would have been deferred to the federal authorities, i.e. Ranger McCarley.  If the police ever checked the license-plate number and obtained the owner’s identity, any concern probably would have been dismissed by McCarley.  Perhaps no suspicions ever arose.   Even though the implicit truce with Ranger McCarley was believed to be in effect, the enthusiasm in developing the area was always slightly overshadowed by apprehensiveness about unfavorable encounters with authorities.  Therefore, the Rogers Park project was generally kept secret. 

 

In the summer of 96, a climber named Jan from the Dallas area was met, and we became acquainted.  She and a few of her friends were informed about Rogers Park.  They were glad to learn of a new climbing area closer than Austin, and everyone agreed to keep the secret.  We all got together for an outing at Rogers Park, but they were mostly intermediate-level climbers primarily interested in roped climbing.  Bouldering on the precarious limestone wasn’t naturally appealing to them.  At the end of the day, one participant commented “this is a good place to climb - where rock breaks.”  Dave drove up for the outing after not having visited for a couple of years.  He already had one kid with another on the way, and he’d been sticking pretty close to home doing most of his climbing at Barton Creek, in Austin.  Donald came along too.  Donald had recently moved to Austin, from Tulsa, after also breaking up with his spouse.  He’d been staying with Dave, and the infamous twins had become climbing partners.  Subsequently, none of the group seemed significantly interested in climbing there again, so for the next year-and-a-half, the solitary experience at Rogers Park lingered on. 

 

In the fall of 96, several items appearing to be rounds of discarded military-ordinance were discovered rusting among the bottles and cans beneath the leaves in one spot below the cliff.  The very large rounds appeared to cannon or mortar ammunition, evidently duds.  The presence of the rusty ammo was no surprise being less than a mile from one of the world’s largest military installations, but the discovery was very alarming .  Reluctance to handle the rounds was finally overcome by the fact that the ammunition had been directly underfoot and had been unknowingly trudged upon repeatedly, for years.  If the explosives had been unstable to the extent of detonating as a result of being moved or disturbed, a detonation would have most likely already occurred.  Therefore, the decision was made to remove the discarded ammunition from the area.  Handling the rounds was still an eerie experience.   Afterwards, a close watch was always kept for any additional ammo, but none was ever found.  The area where the rounds had been found was named The Ammo Dump.

Discarded Military Ammo Removed From Rogers Park
1996

After several months of working in the transmission shop, the job became an unpromising venture.  The shop owner proved to be too immature and annoying to tolerate.  He had very little respect for the employees and finally made one too many personal insults that prompted a well overdue resignation.  This was very good riddance.  There wasn’t much work in the local area, and the prospect of relocating to Austin was being encouraged by all the climbers and appeared to be the most reasonable course to follow. Therefore, new martial-arts students were no longer being accepted and the few remaining were given notice of the plans to relocate.  A couple of the students were advanced, and abandoning them was a heartbreaker.  However, they were understanding and even encouraging.   All unessential possessions were liquidated, and the only loose end was Sissy.  There was no reasonable place for a big old dog on the daunting road ahead.  She obviously didn’t have much time left, and an effort was made to contact the ex-wife via her mother, to find a place for Sissy.  The ex-in-laws had loved Sissy and could have easily provided the dog with a home at their rural estate, but spite prevailed.  The ex-mother-in-law really took the cheese during the conversation.  Needless to say, there was no looking back on that relationship. 

 

A couple of weeks after the ex-mother-in-law had obstinately declined to help Sissy, the dog decided to follow along on a walk to the convenience store one night and was hit by a car.  There was no indication that she was following in the rear, about thirty feet back.  Immediately after crossing a busy street, a thump and a loud yelp were heard from behind, in the darkness.  The realization of what had happened was immediate.  Sissy wasn’t killed instantly and had to be carried back to the house, about half a block away.  She was badly broken up and had to be put down.  Rogers Park is where she was buried.  Sissy was very well trained to stay in the yard, and her behavior that night was totally out of character.  Perhaps she was nervous about the declining circumstances in her home and felt the need to stay closer than usual to the only person caring for her.

 

By the end of 96, the entire cliff-line of Rogers Park had been cleared, and the trail was well established. The transition to living in Austin occurred in February of 97, and employment was promptly obtained.  The initial job had a weird schedule with regular four-day breaks sometimes occurring on weekdays, and over the next year, several solitary camping trips at Lake Belton occurred.  Some nights were spent sleeping in the car while parked at the Rogers Park barricade.  By the spring of 98, the resilient briars and ivy were starting to reclaim their turf, and the need prevailed to generate more foot traffic through the area to pack down the dirt and keep vegetation from growing in the cleared areas.  Therefore, information about Rogers Park was randomly disclosed to climbers met in the Austin area and at Enchanted Rock. 

 

A climber from Brazoria, Texas named James Harrison was met at a climbing gym in Austin.  He was gathering information for an updated rock-climbing guidebook for Central Texas, and he'd been exploring the Lake Belton area using a canoe.  However, he hadn't spotted the obscure cliff-line at Rogers Park, so  we got together for a full tour.  He wrote down information about the existing routes and specific spots along the cliff.  Harrison was an exceptionally gifted climber who immediately fell in love with the Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary, and he made a couple of difficult and daring first-ascents during our tour. 

 

In May of 98, the climbers from the initial group-outing at Rogers Park, back in the summer of 96, got together with several more climbers for a second Rogers Park outing.  During the second outing, everyone was much more interested in bouldering, and we climbed our hearts out that day.  After all of us  were exhausted and just hanging out, some discussion was prompted about removing all the garbage from the area.  The initial suggestion was that everyone would start bringing large garbage bags during visits to the park and begin gradually removing the beer cans, bottles, and small rubbish.   We discussed rolling all of the 55-gallon drums down the hillside and out of sight.  However, a climber who was a member of the Austin based club called Central Texas Mountaineers (CTM) suggested officially organizing a cleanup involving CTM.  The barricade at the Rogers Park access road could be unlocked and swung open to allow vehicle access into the closed camping area, so the suggestion was made to attempt to obtain key for the padlock and use pick-up trucks to haul out the trash. 

Group Outing at Rogers Park
Spring 1998
Including: Jan Capps, John Hogge Steven McReynolds, John O'Gara, the Phillips Brothers (Dave, Donald, & "Joey"), and a few others.
Jan Capps
The Brothers

The idea of organizing an official cleanup seemed great but also seemed like a violation of the implicit truce with Ranger McCarley, from five years earlier.  The thought of drawing official attention to the Rogers Park bouldering development seemed spooky due to the possibility of the authorities simply prohibiting climbing in the area to circumvent official responsibility for potential accidents or other issues that may result.  The idea of continuing the gradual progress, low-profile approach seemed more consistent with the ongoing trend in the area’s development.  However, the group consensus seemed in favor of attempting the organized cleanup. 

 

After news was received about CTM agreeing to make an attempt at organizing a cleanup, a separate committee was formed, on May 23, 1998, by members of the original group that had climbed at Rogers Park, back in 1996.  The committee was entitled Lake Belton Committee for Development and Conservation of Rock-Climbing Resources.  Notification of the committee was mailed to the Lake Belton Office of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, on June 28, 1998.  A couple of weeks later, news was received about the successful arrangement of an official cleanup of the area, and on the weekend of July 25, 1998, about thirty climbers with several pick-up trucks camped at the old campground and successfully removed all of the garbage from Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary. 

 

The Rogers Park cleanup was an inspiration.  The team of climbers worked diligently throughout the entire weekend, in the summer heat, and the spontaneously organized cooperation among the workers was a true testament to the intrinsic unity within the rock-climbing community.   All the large metal drums that had been littering the area were dragged up the cliff using ropes, and every iota of rubbish was bagged and consolidated at spots providing access to the top.  Trucks were systematically loaded before caravanning to the local dump.  Enthusiasm abounded, while in addition to all the work, a lot of bouldering was going on. 

Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary Cleanup
With Central Texas Mountaineers
Summer 1998

The cleanup project at Rogers Park marked the passing of a major milestone in the history and evolution of the scenic bouldering area.  Not only did removal of the unsightly garbage constitute completion of the area’s physical development, the cleanup was also the final and climactic unveiling of the location’s pristine serenity.  Moreover, the official gathering and unified effort of the climbers involved in the cleanup sanctified the sanctuary’s transition into a publically recognized and highly valued foundational resource benefiting not merely the initial group of obscure individuals but a far-reaching community bonded beyond regional and even national boundaries.  The ideally convenient location of Rogers Park was the capstone signifying the prevailing grace that gave birth to the seemingly unlikely manifestation of a monumental sanctuary that was to profoundly touch the hearts and souls of thousands to come.

 

To the original founder and initial custodian of Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary, the trickling stream of sublime gratitude for the opportunity to have facilitated the development of the cherished setting blossomed into a perpetual fountain of creative contentment - a satisfaction derived from a living expression of art combining the mediums of elemental nature, person sacrifice, enduring fortitude, interpersonal inspiration, cultural enthusiasm, and sustaining grace.

 

A valued friendship was formed during the Rogers Park cleanup, when a climber named Tamasin took a serious fall from about twenty feet up.  She had let the excitement of the group bouldering activities compel her into an exuberant commitment on an enticing route that culminates with a bereft crux near the top.  The route had stood undefeated for years and was called Dead Dogs.  While ignoring warnings based on personal experience, Tamasin succumbed to encouragement from several climbers who were cheering her on.  After boldly moving up the vertical face through a series of moderate moves on dicey holds, without considering the reverse sequences, she arrived at the highly intimidating crux and became stuck.  The other climbers kept encouraging her to climb on, but none of them had ever been up there.  The top of Dead Dogs is low-angle and gives the impression of becoming easier (when viewed from the ground), but there are only a couple of skimpy holds on the first part of the low-angle section.   With her torso bent slightly forward over the beginning of the low-angle area, Tamasin could no longer see any of the footholds on the vertical face below.  Reversing the sequence from that point requires knowing exactly where the necessary footholds are, by feel.  Therefore, preparations were made to spot her imminent fall.

 

When Tamasin started getting shaky legs and was gripped with fear, one of the climbers who had been cheering her on attempted to step in and assist with spotting the fall.  He was promptly told to stand back, and fortunately he complied.  When Tamasin fell, she was already in a slightly jack-knife position due to having been slightly bent forward.  She was soaring sensationally and falling slightly backwards while folding at the waste.  The need to spot a fall of this magnitude had never before arisen, and knowledge obtained from magazine articles about spotting was about to be tested.  Her rump delivered a very stout blow to the sternum, but the spot was executed flawlessly.  As the two of us collapsed and rolled sideways absorbing the fall's momentum, a garbage bag full of cans, bottles, and broken glass was beside us.  As we rolled across the bag, Tamasin was on top.  She was obviously uninjured and barely shaken physically, but the experience of being sandwiched between her and the bag of trash produced the expectation of having serious lacerations from broken glass.  She was thoroughly rattled and overwhelmed with amazement at having not been injured.  While nearly in tears and barely able to speak, she expressed gratitude saying “Thank you! Thank you so much! I thought I was going to be hurt real bad…” However, the concern about lacerations was overriding any joy, until someone finally checked for cuts on my backside.  When no bleeding was apparent, the celebration commenced.   The experience was amazing and naturally established an immediate bond between the two of us.  We became close friends for the next couple of years. 

 

The outcome of the Tamasin’s fall was a blessing.  The fall was surely a lesson and a wake-up call for her and the climbers who had encouraged her to get in over her head, while bouldering. 

 

There were a few compliments about how well the spot had been executed - to the extent of neither the climber nor the spotter incurring the slightest injury.  One observer asked how the remarkable spot had been achieved.  The only thing to be said was that the magazine articles about spotting were surely beneficial.  The homework had paid off.

"Dead Dogs"
"X" Marks The Spot From Where Tamisin Fell
Tamisin and the Arthor
Austin, Texas 1998

After the cleanup, Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary became publicized in guidebooks, and during decent weather, climbers were nearly always present on weekends.  The serene atmosphere seemed to foster a comfortable sense of unity among climbers unfamiliar with one another.  Bouldering with different climbers from out of state and farther away places like Houston provided a refreshing diversity.

 

Rogers Park came to be among the most relaxing climbing areas in the region.  On a clear autumn day, with no boats on the lake, a soothing quiet augments the breeze, chirps, and lively stillness amid fragrances of earth, rock, and cedar, while a cool blue sky gives light to the designs, shapes, and faces strewn into the features of the stone.  One can surely lose those walking, talking notions - then stop to sit and drift awhile away.   

 

During a recent visit to Rogers Park Bouldering Sanctuary, nearly twenty years after the cleanup project, the area was absolutely free of any litter whatsoever.  Not a single speck of trash was seen anywhere along the cliff.  The exceptional cleanliness is both an undeniable affirmation of the collective sense of respect and appreciation for the location as well as a sure indication of the reverence and integrity among the overall community of climbers.

John O'Gara
Rogers Park 1998
Dave Phillips
Rogers Park 1999

DISCLAIMER: Climbing-route information and images included in this article are NOT intended for use as topographic data for rock-climbing at Rogers Park.  Persons seeking technical information for climbing routes at Rogers Park are advised to consult current guidebooks, applicable internet-resources, and/or experienced climbers familiar with Rogers Park.  Bouldering is inherently dangerous and requires critical judgement on the part of participants.  Please do not attempt to engage in rock-climbing activities prior to receiving qualified instruction.  

Article by Joseph L. Phillips © 2018
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